We have made a more tailored version for our Roman Shade, using the Tube Tape made specifically for this look. It is applied horizontally as opposed to the traditional way of sewing on rings or ring tape, vertically. With the addition of dowels in the pocket/tube portion of the tape, a more pronounced pleat is made.

We've dressed our roman shade up with the addition of a trimmed valance at the top of the window frame.

(Click on image for larger view)

For added decoration, and to soften the look of the Roman Shade, sew trim at hem of valance. You can use decorative bands, fringes, eyelet or lace. Let your imagination be your guide.

Measure Window
For inside mount, measure length of window from inside molding at top to sill. Measure width of window between side moldings. For outside mount, measure length of window from location of mounting board to sill. Measure width of window to outside edges of side moldings. These measurements will determine finished length and width of shade.

Determine Cutting Width and Length of Shade
The cutting width of your shade may exceed the width of your fabric. You will need to seam panels together before you cut the final width. Desired finished width of shade, plus hems, divided by fabric width will determine the number of panels needed. To determine how much fabric you need, multiply the number of panels by the cutting length. Cutting length will be 3" longer than finished shade length. If your fabric repeats a printed design periodically, you will need to add the length of one repeat to each panel to allow enough fabric for matching patterns.

NOTE: When making a "sculpted" shade, draw out the pattern for the lower part and allow for it in the length.

NOTE: Be sure to match your thread as close as possible to your fabric as the lines of stitching will show to some extent on the finished side of the curtain. The stitching will be taken up in the pleat treatment, but some will still remain. In many styles of Magic Curtain Tapes, you may have as many as four lines of stitching.

Construct Shade

1. Seam fabric panels together, if necessary, to achieve desired width. Cut fabric and lining the same size. With right sides together, pin fabric and lining at long side edges. The shade must be a perfect rectangle. Check for square corners with a T-Square at this time.
2. Trace pattern on lower edge of lining.
3. Stitch top, bottom (following pattern), and one side seam.
4. Clip curves in seam allowance for bottom (sculpted) end. Press seams open.
5. Stitch second side, leaving small opening to turn to right side. Turn. Slip stitch opening closed. HINT: For best results, press, then top stitch at edge, around entire shade. Top stitch a second row 1/2" in.
6. On right side, sew trim at lower edge, following pattern. Turn under ends of trim to make clean finish and prevent fraying.
7. Wrights^® Roman Shade Tube Tape is a unique product that allows you to stitch the tape on horizontally, rather than vertically, therefore stitching in the same direction as your folds, re-enforcing-enforcing and stabilizing the folds (or pleats). To use this easy product simply measure the desired distance between folds (usually 6 to 8 inches depending on how deep you want your folds to be - see illustration 2). Mark the location of the folds, starting 2 inches up from the bottom and ending approximately 3 inches from the top making sure that your spacing is exactly equidistant and lines are parallel all the way up.
8. Place Wrights^® Roman Shade Tube Tape (145-1002) on the lines that you have marked and pin. Make sure that the finished edge is at the top with the tube or pocket at the bottom edge with the cord guides or pockets facing out (see illustration 3).
9. It is important that all the loops be exactly in line with the loops on the tape lines above and below them.
10. Stitch the rows of tape down close to the upper edges leaving 1/2 inch loose at either end, so that the raw ends can be turned under and slip stitched to shade.
11. Once you have slip stitched your ends closed, you insert the wood dowels, or rods into the tube pocket. For ease of insertion and removal of the dowels for laundering there are slits in the tube at the bottom edge. Simply slip the dowel in through the slit closest to the edge (see illustration 4).
12. Separate Snap Tape and pin one side to top of shade, centering snaps on shade and turning under 1/2" on both ends. Stitch all edges of Snap Tape through all thicknesses.

    Mount Board And Shade

13. Staple remaining side of Snap Tape to narrow edge of mounting board, centering snaps and turning under 1/2" on both ends. Snap shade in place. You may want to cover mounting board with shade fabric before applying Snap Tape. This gives a more "finished" look.
14. To "string" your shade, tie the first length of polyester cord to a cord guide or loop on the bottom row of Roman Shade Tube Tape and approximately 1 inch in from the long edge. Run the cord through the corresponding cord guides all the way to the top of the shade. Continue this process, going across the shade, spacing the cords approximately 10 inches apart (or whatever works best for shade's dimensions) ending with the last cord line 1 inch in from the edge (see illustration 5).
15. Attach screw eyes to underside of mounting board directly in line with each cord line and run the cord through the screw eyes. With shade flat, knot cords together just outside the last screw eye. Knot cords again approximately 3/4 of the way down the length of the shade.

    Mount Board
    

16. For Inside Mount: Mount board to inside of window molding at top with screws or L Brackets. For Outside Mount: Mount board to wall above window with L Brackets.
17. Install cleat to window molding at a comfortable height. Twist cords around cleat to anchor when shade is raised.